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“Everyone is obliged to see this extravaganza at least once in their life” The story of a white shaman who decided to take tourists to the Far North: Tourism: 69th parallel: Lenta.ru

The Putorana Plateau is the largest monolithic mountain range in the Russian Arctic. It is located in the northwest of the Central Siberian Plateau, borders on the Taimyr Peninsula from the north and is almost entirely north of the Arctic Circle. The area of ​​​​the plateau is 250 thousand square kilometers, which is quite comparable with the territory of Great Britain. The maximum height of the plateau is 1701 meters. The name “Putorana” in translation from Evenki means “lake with steep banks”. In the eastern part of the plateau, in the upper reaches of the Ayakli, Maimecha and Kungtykahy rivers, there is a pole of inaccessibility. So the Soviet geologists called this place because of its inaccessibility and remoteness from any populated areas. There are no people here for years, there are no buildings, let alone roads. Here the virgin, undisturbed by civilization nature has been preserved intact. For thousands of years, the inhabitants of the tundra and forest-tundra, taiga and mountains coexisted on the plateau. On the Putorana Plateau there are 43 species of fish, 184 species of birds, 39 species of mammals, including the unique Putorana bighorn sheep, listed in the international Red Book. And here in the area of ​​​​Lake Vivi is the geographical center of Russia.
About the Putorana Plateau, about how to visit it, see everything with your own eyes and feel its powerful energy, “Lente.ru” was told by the person who knows these places best of all – the white shaman Oleg Krashevsky.

I first came to the plateau in 1978. At that time, I worked at the Institute of Agriculture of the Far North in the department of commercial biology or game science. And I immediately fell in love with this place. I’m used to open spaces. When I am in the taiga, where there is a dense forest and visibility of several tens of meters, it depresses me. And on the plateau, not only are there huge open spaces, but also magnificent mountains.

Nuclear winter lasted for millennia, and life on Earth almost died

The plateau is huge – 250 thousand square kilometers. Over the years, I traveled a significant part of it, spent the winter in its various parts, built several bases. In the Soviet years, we flew the An-2 a lot. At that time, money was allocated for research on migration and registration of wild reindeer, which left the Taimyr Peninsula for wintering in the central and southern parts of the Putorana Plateau. The raid was several hundred hours per season. So I know these places inside and out.

The Putorana Plateau is radically different from all mountain systems in the world. Its formation began about 240-250 million years ago. During that period, the Great Permian Extinction occurred. Life on Earth almost disappeared. According to scientists, 90-95 percent of the species of all living beings that inhabit not only the land, but also the seas and oceans, have died out. That is, we are talking about the complete extinction of entire species, and not a certain number of individuals. Before that, judging by the most ancient deposits, everything on Earth was seething and gurgling with life, and after that, the oceans and land were practically empty.

There were many theories – asteroid, pole shifts and others, and then scientists came to the conclusion that powerful eruptions that occurred about 250 million years ago led to the catastrophe, as a result of which the Putorana Plateau was formed.

Giant layers of the earth’s crust crawled on each other, cracked, broke, and magma flowed from these faults, which spread in thin layers over hundreds of thousands of square kilometers, like pancake dough in a frying pan. The thickness of the layers ranged from ten to twenty meters or more. And such stratifications took place over several million years.

The eruptions were accompanied by terrible thermal shocks in the atmosphere, the release of gigantic volumes of poisonous gases, the sky was covered with clouds of ash, through which the sun did not break through. That is, what we call nuclear winter lasted not even centuries, but thousands of years. Life on Earth then almost ceased

But the vast majority of species have disappeared completely, and we can’t even imagine what they were like. Paleontologists find fossilized remains of animals that cannot be attributed to any of the currently existing species. Had it not been for the Great Permian Extinction, life on Earth would have been very different.

Like silver reptiles, waterfalls flow from the mountains

As a result of these processes, the Central Siberian Plateau was formed, the center and highest part of which is the Putorana Plateau. Deep faults became river valleys and the deepest lakes, and the erosion of rocks of varying degrees of hardness, which lasted millions of years, led to the formation of steps that turned into waterfalls. On the plateau there is the largest direct fall waterfall in Russia – Kandinsky (108 meters), the highest cascading waterfall – Talnikovy (600 meters and 15 steps), the Oransky waterfall with the widest caldera (400 meters) and the most powerful waterfall in terms of spillway – Kureysky.

There are tens of thousands of waterfalls on the plateau. Their number and power are amazing. Each ravine is a waterfall. Only in the vicinity of my base, within a radius of five to ten kilometers where we take groups, there are about 250 of them. The highest of them is 42 meters, and this is already decent enough. You can see cascades of 30 waterfalls and more. At the same time, we consider only that which is higher than four meters as a waterfall. Less is so, steps.

Shaitan Mountain – a place of prehistoric battles

In the early 1990s, it became clear that funding for northern projects was being curtailed, and it was impossible to get to the bases located in the depths of a huge wild massif without the help of aviation. By this time, I had already tightly connected my life with both accessible and interesting. The eastern end of Lake Lama became such a place. In summer, you can get there by boat, in winter – by snowmobiles.

But the main advantage was that opposite this place is the legendary Shaitan Mountain, where the last Evenki shaman lived out her life in the 1930s.

Shaitan Mountain is a place of power, energetically very significant. At the top of the mountain are the ruins of colossal ancient megalithic structures 160-180 meters long, demolished by powerful explosions of prehistoric battles.

And this was the decisive moment in choosing a place for my new base. In 1997, I registered the land and started construction. By that time, I had earned the money needed for the project by doing business. He built for himself, for friends, for guests, for meditation. I did not think about tourism then, but soon the first groups began to come to me. And in the autumn of 1998 there was a default, and my financial situation deteriorated sharply. The result was a long-term construction. It was only in 2003-2004 that I began to bring tourists to me on a permanent basis.

At first they came mainly from Norilsk and only for the weekend. Rarely came from the mainland. But the Norilsk “weekend package” quickly disappointed me. They came with boxes of vodka to “recreate culturally”, but I can’t stand drunk people, which often led to misunderstandings.

As a result, I realized that it was time to change the concept and expand. In 2015, I opened the first tour operator company in the region, began to advertise, sell tours and purposefully transport people from the mainland. And these were already completely different people who had come a long way and spent a lot of money to see and feel the splendor of this incredible place, to learn something, and not just get drunk in nature and do something weird.

Live in a deerskin plague, sleep in a plague bed

Our base “Bunisyak” (after the name of the river that flows into Lake Lama nearby) is the only one in the central part of the plateau. There are other bases on Lake Lama built in my footsteps, but they are located in the foothills, closer to Norilsk. And we have the farthest part of the lake, its eastern tip, which cuts into the eastern part of the plateau. This is a huge canyon. Around us are mountains 1000-1100 meters high. And, as I said, this is a place of power, very convenient for shamanic practices.

This year, the Nenets will come to me, and with their help we will install a real tent sewn from deer skins at the base. There will be beds, authentic freaky furniture, and you will be able to live. Everything is absolutely real and very interesting.

The usual tour is arranged like this. The guests arrive in Norilsk, we meet them there and take them on caboose (rafting boat – approx. “Tapes.ru”) along the route Norilka River – Talaya River – Melkoe Lake – Lama River – Lama Lake. Then 82 kilometers across the lake. That is, from the plain – to the foothills and to the mountains themselves. The crossing takes about six hours. And that in itself is an interesting adventure.

Our program on the plateau is designed for eight days. From the base, people go on daytime radial hikes of five to ten kilometers lightly. During these trips they will see hundreds of waterfalls, dozens of canyons and absolutely stunning landscapes of the Putorana Plateau.

Several rangers always go with each group, because someone goes further, someone reaches the middle of the route, and someone reaches the first terrace, make a fire there and say: “We can see everything clearly from here.” But with each of these subgroups, a huntsman is sure to remain – for help and protection. There are many large animals on the plateau: bears, wolves, wolverines, elks, reindeer, the rarest Putorana snow sheep.

At the base we have a three-story guest house, a bathhouse, a chic dining room with professional chefs who cook in such a way that people swallow their ears. There are almost no mosquitoes around the base. In the evenings, we gather in the big hall, dance to the gramophone, I have about 200 records, hold master classes in tailoring the national clothes of the North, cooking yukola, I talk about the history of the plateau, local legends, show exhibits of the ethnographic museum of Lake Lama.

Large shamanic crown of the Kosterkin family

I have collected the museum for many years. I have always had excellent relations with the local population, and when I began to engage in bioenergetics, heal and predict, I was recognized by the indigenous people and began to deposit, donate or sell authentic things and objects used in shamanic rituals. Much of this would never even be shown to other Russians.

Gradually gathered quite a serious collection. It consists of several sections. These are harnesses for domestic deer, items made of mammoth ivory and horns with a wide variety of ornaments – Dolgan, Nganasan. Lots of authentic clothes, household items, hunting and fishing tools. Ritual items – shaman costumes, tambourines, idols. There are more than a thousand exhibits in total.

The most valuable and dear object of the collection for me is a large shaman’s crown. The main idol of all Nganasans. It was passed down in the family of hereditary shamans Kosterkins in 12-14 generations.

Roughly speaking, it is 300-350 years old, but even then it was already old. It was worn on the head by the chief shaman of the clan during the ritual.

We have four seasonal programs for guests. Each has its own specifics, due to the time of year. It must be remembered that summer is short beyond the Arctic Circle, there is a polar day and a polar night.

The spring program is June, the height of the polar day, the solstice, it is warm, there are no mosquitoes, which is important for many. Rivers boil, waterfalls roar. Check-in by hovercraft, airboats or helicopters.

Summer – July-August, quiet, warm, the best time for hiking, a lot of mushrooms and berries.

Autumn – stunning sunsets, autumn fish biting, northern lights. Everyone should see this incredible celestial extravaganza at least once in their life. On the plateau they are especially strong, against their background the Murmansk ones are just baby talk. This year the sun is active, and it will be especially beautiful.

Winter – April-May, a trip on snowmobiles across frozen lakes to colossal icefalls.

***

The Putorana Plateau is not only nature untouched by civilization, mountains, rivers, lakes, canyons, thousands of waterfalls, it is much more. This is a giant natural battery in which energy has accumulated for millions of years. It is felt by almost everyone who comes here. And not only feel, but also recharged by the power of these places.

Enlightenment comes here, people find answers to questions that have tormented them for years, resolve internal problems and clarify their own consciousness.

For this they come here again and again. It is impossible not to feel this power.

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